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Brewer’s Art spring menu

April 11, 2013
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Seeking a bit of reprieve from yesterday’s record-setting heat, we made our way down into the blessedly dark basement bar of Brewer’s Art to wet our whistles and taste from the spring menu, which Beasley, the bartender, told us has been hitting plates for the last two weeks or so.

We got the highly alliterative porcini, pancetta, and pea pierogies ($11), which were tasty, but seemed more like empanadas than pierogies with their baked pastry-like crusts. But the roasted  leg of lamb sandwich ($14) was truly sublime. The arugula, piquillo peppers, and sheep’s milk cheese  really brought out the earthy, spring flavors of the lamb–it was like the winey concept of terroir had been transferred to the sandwich and I could taste the dirt and grass–in a good way–where this lamb grew up. All the ingredients combined as perfectly in texture as in taste on the baguette for what was one of the most remarkable sandwiches I’d ever eaten–every bite was a pleasant surprise, reminding me of some complex flavor I’d forgotten. And the summery Birdhouse Ale was such a fine compliment to the sandwich that I had three or four.

My pal got the schnitzel sandwich on a pretzel roll ($11) and was equally happy, though to me, it was a little more wintery–like a chicken fried steak.

Chef Ray Kumm, who took the helm of Brewer’s Art’s kitchen last fall, is really allowing his art to bloom with the spring menu. We can’t wait to try the entrees.

 

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